One of the things I was really keen to do while I was in Morocco was to go hiking in the Atlas mountains, which is how I ended up exploring Todra Gorge. The spectacular limestone ravine lies in the eastern part of the High Atlas mountains, not far from the city of Tinghir. We started our hike just after 8am, when we met our guide for the day, Mohammed, at the bottom of the gorge, near a large abandoned building (above). We set off up the narrow mountain path, which was rocky underfoot, but easy enough to follow. The first…
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There isn’t much to see in the southeastern Moroccan city of Tinghir, but it makes an ideal base from which to explore the eastern parts of the High Atlas mountains. Located in the Drâa-Tafilalet valley, the city’s close to the spectacular Todra Gorge, where we planned to spend a day hiking. We had a long drive ahead of us to reach Tinghir, so we stopped at a couple of interesting spots along the way to help break up the journey: the Jorf Khettaras and a palm grove by the Todra River. After saying goodbye to the sand dunes of Erg…
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Enormous mounds of soft, ethereal, rusty red sand rising from the ground as far as the eye can see – welcome to Erg Chebbi. As far as travel moments go, few are as memorable as watching the sun go down from the top of a huge sand dune in this ridiculously photogenic part of Morocco. Affectionately known as the Baby Sahara, I spent a fun, unforgettable night glamping under the stars at the foot of these extraordinary dunes. We caught our first glimpse of the dunes as we approached the desert town of Merzouga in the southeast of Morocco. I…
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Thanks to its bustling maze of a medina, traditional craftsmanship and stunning architecture, Fes offers a fascinating glimpse into Morocco’s long history and rich culture. The oldest of Morocco’s four Imperial cities, Fes was founded in the 8th century, when successive kings established settlements on either side of the River Fes. In the 11th century, the Almoravids merged the two into one and it became the Imperial capital in 1250 under the Merenid dynasty. The city kept its capital status until the 17th century, when Moulay Ismail moved the capital to nearby Meknes. The city then fell into decline until…
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In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the Imperial city of Meknes must have been a dazzling, showstopping affair. Founded by the Almoravid dynasty in the 11th century, in 1672 the city was chosen by Moulay Ismail, one of Morocco’s great kings, as his new capital. He set about building an enormous palace complex surrounded by thick walls, in the hope of creating Morocco’s answer to Versailles. In 1755, the city was damaged by the Lisbon earthquake and Moulay Ismail’s grandson, Mohammed III, decided to move the capital to Marrakech. Today the city is home to more than half…
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Towering above the Atlantic Ocean on the Casablanca shore lies Hassan II Mosque, one of the biggest and most beautiful mosques in Africa, and the first stop on my tour of Morocco. The enormous mosque was commissioned by King Hassan II, and built between 1986 and 1993 to a design by the French architect Michel Pinseau. I started my visit in the mosque’s colossal courtyard, which can hold up to 80,000 people. I’d arrived at the mosque first thing in the morning, so I spent some time looking around the courtyard while I waited for it to open, admiring the…
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Whether you love a spot of art, history, nature or culture, you’re bound to find a museum for you in Reykjavik. The Icelandic capital boasts a huge array of museums covering everything from whales to maritime history, manuscripts and photography. There’s even a museum dedicated to phalluses, which bills itself as “the world’s only genuine penis museum”. Regular readers of my blog will probably have guessed that I’m rather partial to a museum. So it goes without saying I’d planned a visit to a trio of Reykjavik’s most illustrious institutions – the National Museum of Iceland, the National Gallery of…
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From vividly hued craters to bubbling geysers, powerful waterfalls and a serene rift valley, the classic Golden Circle tour offers visitors a tantalising glimpse of Iceland’s stunning and varied landscapes. The day-long tour from Reykjavik takes visitors around a series of sites in south Iceland, including the Geysir Geothermal Area, the spectacular waterfall Gullfoss and historic Þingvellir National Park. Some tours add other nearby sites, too. I booked onto a tour by Get Your Guide that also stopped at the extraordinary Kerid Crater. I joined the tour, a coach-load of some 50 people, at a bus stop in central Reykjavik,…
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When I was looking for things to do in Reykjavik, two things jumped out at me – whale watching and seeing the Northern Lights. Regular readers of my blog will know that I love any opportunity to see wildlife and having never observed whales in the wild or Aurora Borealis, I was keen to see if I could catch a glimpse of these two incredible natural wonders. Here’s how I got on… Whale watching in Faxaflói Bay The waters surrounding Iceland are home to a host of marine life, including blue, minke and humpback whales, as well as orcas, harbour…
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The most northerly capital in the world, Iceland’s biggest city is small, compact and friendly, and can easily be explored on foot. I spent a lot of time during my five days in Reykjavik walking around the city centre as I traversed from one part to another. Here’s a whistle stop guide to some of the sights I visited… A very brief history of Reykjavik Founded in 870 by the Vikings, Reykjavik means ‘Bay of Smoke’ and was named for the steam coming from the area’s geothermal springs. It was a small and fairly inconsequential settlement until the end of…