• Africa

    Fes: Uncovering traditions and culture in the historic medina

    Thanks to its bustling maze of a medina, traditional craftsmanship and stunning architecture, Fes offers a fascinating glimpse into Morocco’s long history and rich culture. The oldest of Morocco’s four Imperial cities, Fes was founded in the 8th century, when successive kings established settlements on either side of the River Fes. In the 11th century, the Almoravids merged the two into one and it became the Imperial capital in 1250 under the Merenid dynasty. The city kept its capital status until the 17th century, when Moulay Ismail moved the capital to nearby Meknes. The city then fell into decline until…

  • Africa

    Meknes: Discovering one of Morocco’s four Imperial Cities

    In the late 17th and early 18th centuries, the Imperial city of Meknes must have been a dazzling, showstopping affair. Founded by the Almoravid dynasty in the 11th century, in 1672 the city was chosen by Moulay Ismail, one of Morocco’s great kings, as his new capital. He set about building an enormous palace complex surrounded by thick walls, in the hope of creating Morocco’s answer to Versailles. In 1755, the city was damaged by the Lisbon earthquake and Moulay Ismail’s grandson, Mohammed III, decided to move the capital to Marrakech. Today the city is home to more than half…

  • Africa

    Casablanca: A tour of the majestic Hassan II Mosque

    Towering above the Atlantic Ocean on the Casablanca shore lies Hassan II Mosque, one of the biggest and most beautiful mosques in Africa, and the first stop on my tour of Morocco. The enormous mosque was commissioned by King Hassan II, and built between 1986 and 1993 to a design by the French architect Michel Pinseau. I started my visit in the mosque’s colossal courtyard, which can hold up to 80,000 people. I’d arrived at the mosque first thing in the morning, so I spent some time looking around the courtyard while I waited for it to open, admiring the…

  • Europe

    Reykjavik: The Perlan Institute and other museums

    Whether you love a spot of art, history, nature or culture, you’re bound to find a museum for you in Reykjavik. The Icelandic capital boasts a huge array of museums covering everything from whales to maritime history, manuscripts and photography. There’s even a museum dedicated to phalluses, which bills itself as “the world’s only genuine penis museum”. Regular readers of my blog will probably have guessed that I’m rather partial to a museum. So it goes without saying I’d planned a visit to a trio of Reykjavik’s most illustrious institutions – the National Museum of Iceland, the National Gallery of…

  • Europe

    South Iceland: The classic Golden Circle tour

    From vividly hued craters to bubbling geysers, powerful waterfalls and a serene rift valley, the classic Golden Circle tour offers visitors a tantalising glimpse of Iceland’s stunning and varied landscapes. The day-long tour from Reykjavik takes visitors around a series of sites in south Iceland, including the Geysir Geothermal Area, the spectacular waterfall Gullfoss and historic Þingvellir National Park. Some tours add other nearby sites, too. I booked onto a tour by Get Your Guide that also stopped at the extraordinary Kerid Crater. I joined the tour, a coach-load of some 50 people, at a bus stop in central Reykjavik,…

  • Europe

    Searching for whales and the Northern Lights near Reykjavik

    When I was looking for things to do in Reykjavik, two things jumped out at me – whale watching and seeing the Northern Lights. Regular readers of my blog will know that I love any opportunity to see wildlife and having never observed whales in the wild or Aurora Borealis, I was keen to see if I could catch a glimpse of these two incredible natural wonders. Here’s how I got on… Whale watching in Faxaflói Bay The waters surrounding Iceland are home to a host of marine life, including blue, minke and humpback whales, as well as orcas, harbour…

  • Europe

    Reykjavik: A walking tour around the city centre

    The most northerly capital in the world, Iceland’s biggest city is small, compact and friendly, and can easily be explored on foot. I spent a lot of time during my five days in Reykjavik walking around the city centre as I traversed from one part to another. Here’s a whistle stop guide to some of the sights I visited… A very brief history of Reykjavik Founded in 870 by the Vikings, Reykjavik means ‘Bay of Smoke’ and was named for the steam coming from the area’s geothermal springs. It was a small and fairly inconsequential settlement until the end of…

  • Europe

    Iceland: First impressions

    The land of fire and ice is a beguiling, otherworldly place, its scenery as dramatic as its nickname suggests. From bubbling geysers to snowcapped volcanoes, stunning waterfalls (below) and black sand beaches, nothing quite prepares you for Iceland’s magnificent beauty. As I travelled across the Reykjanes Peninsula on my way to the country’s capital Reykjavik, I was struck by the vast expanse of yellow grass and jet black soil that surrounded us. It was a bleak, unrelenting scene, unlike any I’d seen before and I was instantly captivated. It took me a while to put my finger on why I…

  • Europe

    Ossau Valley

    Most first-timers assume the Ossau Valley is a single trail you follow from a visitor center. It’s not. The valley is a network of 200+ kilometers of marked paths, three distinct climate zones, and a handful of refuges that book out weeks in advance. If you show up without a plan, you’ll either end up on a crowded gravel path or miss the best sections entirely. This guide is for the person who wants to hike the Ossau Valley without wasting time or money. I’ll cover what actually matters: trail difficulty, real costs, gear you’ll need, and the mistakes that…

  • Uk

    London: Kew Gardens

    I was in London in the spring catching up with friends, when one of my friends suggested we spend the day at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew. I love Kew Gardens and hadn’t been there for years, so I was more than happy to revisit one of my favourite London haunts. Home to more than 50,000 species of plants from all corners of the globe, the world-famous gardens date back to the mid-18th century, when King George III’s mother, Princess Augusta, established a botanical garden at Kew. In 1840, the gardens were handed over to the state and they’ve…