• Europe

    Loire Valley: Chateau de Chenonceau

    Thanks to its arched bridges spanning the River Cher, Chenonceau is possibly the prettiest, most distinctive and most fairytale-like of all the chateaux of the Loire. I’d been wanting to visit Chenonceau since I was a child after my parents bought me a 3D jigsaw of it (it took forever to build!). So when my parents invited me to spend a week with them in the Loire Valley in June 2019, it was at the top of my list of places to visit. There’s been a chateau on the spot since the 12th or 13th centuries. But the current incarnation…

  • Europe

    Hughenden: Disraeli’s Buckinghamshire estate with a secret history

    Tucked away in a valley in the Chiltern Hills you’ll find Hughenden, the country pile of former British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli. Queen Victoria’s favourite PM bought the 1,500-acre estate in the Buckinghamshire countryside in 1848 as a country retreat and lived there with his wife Mary Anne when he wasn’t in London. The estate dates back to at least Norman times, when it was owned by William the Conqueror’s brother, Odo, Bishop of Bayeux. The current red-brick house was built in the late 18th century and was redesigned by the architect Edward Buckton Lamb for the Disraelis in 1862.…

  • Europe

    Norfolk: Holkham Estate

    I’ve been to many a stately home in my time, but the Holkham estate on the north Norfolk coast is one of my all time favourites – and I didn’t even step foot in the hall! Made up of a grand Palladian mansion surrounded by 3,000 acres of parkland, Holkham also boasts a boating lake (above), 700 acres of woodland, a walled garden, various historic buildings, a village, a nature reserve and a sandy beach. Plus it’s home to around 400 fallow deer (below). In short, there’s plenty to see and do, and you need a full day to see…

  • Europe

    Madrid: El Escorial

    Philip II had 21 years and the resources of the wealthiest empire on Earth to build exactly one thing. The result is a 300,000 square-meter granite complex that functions simultaneously as a royal palace, an active monastery, a Renaissance library, a seminary, and a royal tomb. El Escorial sits 50km northwest of Madrid in the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama — close enough for a day trip, substantial enough to deserve a full day. Most tourists spend three hours there and leave saying it was interesting. Four hours is what the place actually requires. Here’s what to see, how…

  • Europe

    Madrid: Museo Cerralbo

    Of all the many places I visited in Madrid, the Museo Cerralbo was by far my favourite. Situated in an unassuming 19th century mansion, the museum showcases the former home and collection of Enrique de Aguilera y Gamboa, an archaeologist, politician and the 17th Marquis of Cerralbo. When he died in 1922, the Marquis left his collection to the Spanish nation on condition that the state keep the house as he left it. And I can’t say I blame him for that. Madrid has many lavish, ornate museums and palaces, but the Museo Cerralbo tops the lot with its jaw-dropping…

  • Europe

    Porto travel guide

    Consider this scenario: you’ve allocated four days for Porto, printed a list of must-see attractions from the top travel sites, and arrived to find the main viewpoints packed by 10am, the famous bookshop requiring tickets booked weeks in advance, and your hotel in Ribeira charging €35 per night more than the same quality room two neighborhoods over. This is the most common Porto experience — not because the city disappoints, but because most guides describe it in its best-case version rather than as it typically unfolds. This guide presents Porto as it generally operates: realistic costs, which neighborhoods actually deliver…

  • Europe

    Nantes

    Imagine you’re planning a week in western France and a colleague mentions Nantes as the “not-too-touristy alternative” to Paris. You look it up, find photos of a 12-meter mechanical elephant and a Gothic castle, and wonder whether that’s actually enough for three days. That skepticism is reasonable — and, as most travel accounts suggest, largely misplaced. Nantes has generally been regarded as one of France’s most livable and creatively ambitious cities. It sits at the western end of the Loire Valley, within reach of Atlantic beaches, close to Muscadet wine country, and home to a contemporary art infrastructure that coexists…

  • Europe

    Nantes: Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne

    Nestled in the heart of Nantes’s medieval centre lies the magnificent and imposing Chateau des Ducs de Bretagne, the former home of the dukes of Brittany. It was the place I was most excited about visiting in Nantes and on my first full day in the city, I made my way to the chateau, keen to get there soon after it opened at 10am. The chateau dates back to the 13th century and its famous former residents have included Anne, Duchess of Brittany, who went on to marry two French kings, and her father Fran?ois II. It’s also said to…

  • Europe

    Sainte-Anne-d’Auray

    You’ve booked a week in Brittany. Carnac is on the list. Vannes too. Then someone mentions Sainte-Anne-d’Auray, and you search it. The results are mostly religious pilgrimage content. You’re not sure if it’s worth an afternoon detour if faith isn’t your thing. It is. But only if you go prepared. Sainte-Anne-d’Auray is the most important Marian pilgrimage site in Brittany — France’s second most visited Catholic pilgrimage destination after Lourdes. But it also holds a compelling war memorial, a genuinely surprising museum, and an atmosphere that’s hard to find anywhere else in Morbihan. The trick is knowing what to prioritize…

  • Europe

    Vannes

    Is Vannes worth a detour on your Brittany trip — or is it just another pretty French town? That question is reasonable to ask. Brittany has no shortage of attractive historic towns, and Vannes doesn’t appear on most first-timer shortlists the way Saint-Malo or Mont-Saint-Michel do. What the city actually offers is a combination that’s genuinely hard to find: a well-preserved medieval walled core, direct access to one of France’s most unusual coastal ecosystems, and a scale that stays human without feeling like a museum piece. Most travelers who seek it out find it delivers. Those who stumble in expecting…