• Europe

    Ossau Valley

    Most first-timers assume the Ossau Valley is a single trail you follow from a visitor center. It’s not. The valley is a network of 200+ kilometers of marked paths, three distinct climate zones, and a handful of refuges that book out weeks in advance. If you show up without a plan, you’ll either end up on a crowded gravel path or miss the best sections entirely. This guide is for the person who wants to hike the Ossau Valley without wasting time or money. I’ll cover what actually matters: trail difficulty, real costs, gear you’ll need, and the mistakes that…

  • Uk

    London: Kew Gardens

    I was in London in the spring catching up with friends, when one of my friends suggested we spend the day at the Royal Botanic Gardens in Kew. I love Kew Gardens and hadn’t been there for years, so I was more than happy to revisit one of my favourite London haunts. Home to more than 50,000 species of plants from all corners of the globe, the world-famous gardens date back to the mid-18th century, when King George III’s mother, Princess Augusta, established a botanical garden at Kew. In 1840, the gardens were handed over to the state and they’ve…

  • Europe

    Route du Vin

    You booked a week in Alsace, pulled up a map of the Route du Vin, and immediately felt overwhelmed. 170 kilometers of winding roads. 67 wine villages. Dozens of Grand Cru vineyards. Every blog tells you to visit “charming medieval towns” but nobody tells you which ones are worth your Saturday afternoon and which are a parking nightmare with overpriced Riesling. I spent two weeks driving the Route du Vin in 2026, tasting at 22 domaines, and getting stuck in Riquewihr during August rush hour so you don’t have to. Here’s the itinerary that works — the one that balances…

  • Uk

    Edinburgh Castle

    You book a 10:00 AM ticket for Edinburgh Castle, arrive at 9:45, and stand in a queue that snakes past the ticket office, through the esplanade, and back toward the Royal Mile. Forty-five minutes later, you’re inside — but you’ve already lost the morning light for photos and the crowds are three deep at the Crown Jewels. I made that mistake on my first visit. By my third, I had a system. Here’s what the data shows about actually getting into Edinburgh Castle without wasting half your day. How Edinburgh Castle Ticketing Actually Works Edinburgh Castle uses a timed-entry system…

  • Europe

    Loire Valley: The château and gardens at Chaumont-sur-Loire

    Of all the châteaux I visited in the Loire Valley, my favourite was possibly Chaumont-sur-Loire. This château, perched high on a cliff overlooking the picturesque River Loire, may not have the architectural flourishes of Chambord or Chenonceau, but it’s a delightfully charming affair surrounded by acres of stunning gardens. Originally founded at the beginning of the 11th century by Odo I, Count of Blois, the current château dates back to the late 15th and early 16th centuries. In 1465, the old château was burned to the ground on the orders of Louis XI after its then-owner Pierre d’Amboise took part…

  • Europe

    Loire Valley: Château d’Amboise

    The last château we visited in the Loire Valley was the elegant Château d’Amboise. Set high on a rock overlooking the historic market town of Amboise on the banks of the River Loire, this former royal château is where Leonardo da Vinci was laid to rest. The castle became a royal residence in 1434 when Charles VII took it from its then-owner Louis d’Amboise as punishment for plotting against Louis XI. Much of the current building dates back to the late 15th century when Charles VIII had it rebuilt. For the next 150 years or so, the château was a…

  • Europe

    Loire Valley: Château du Clos Lucé

    In the historic market town of Amboise on the banks of the Loire, you’ll find Château du Clos Lucé, the large brick mansion where Leonardo da Vinci spent the last years of his life working for the French court. The legendary artist-scientist-inventor had been enticed to France at the age of 64 by François I, who lent him the royal family’s summer house as a base, and da Vinci lived there for the next three years until his death on 2 May 1519. The château, which was originally named Manoir du Cloux, was built by Hugues d’Amboise in the 15th…

  • Europe

    Loire Valley: The beautiful village of Montrésor

    Thanks to its quaint medieval streets, charming château and lovely views of the River Indrois, it’s hardly surprising that Montrésor has been named one of les plus beaux villages de France (most beautiful villages in France). It’s one of only three villages to have been given the distinction in the Loire Valley. We started our visit to Montrésor at the privately owned château, which is perched high on a rock in the centre of the village overlooking the River Indrois. The château was built in the Renaissance style by Imbert de Bastarnay (a counsellor to kings Louis XI, Charles VIII,…

  • Uk

    Lee Valley Country Park

    Straddling the Essex-Hertfordshire border, the Lee Valley Country Park is a 1,000 acre picturesque site teeming with wildlife and the home of the Lee Valley White Water Centre (where you can follow in the footsteps of the London 2012 Olympic canoers). It’s also a surprisingly peaceful and calming place to while away an afternoon. Aside from the odd cyclist, dog-walker and family picking blackberries and raspberries, I came across very few people during my two-and-a-half hour stroll along the banks of the River Lee and its surrounding wetlands. I did, however, enjoy the company of lots of birds, including some…

  • Uk

    Wells: Bishop’s Palace and Gardens

    Welcome to part two of my Wells adventure, which after Wells Cathedral and Vicars’ Close focuses on the remaining part of the city’s triumvirate of medieval masterpieces – the Bishop’s Palace and gardens. The partially-ruined Bishop’s Palace has been the home of the Bishop of Bath and Wells for more than 800 years and is steeped in history. The palace, along with the 14 acres of gardens that surround it, lies in the heart of the city, a stone’s throw from Wells Cathedral, concealed behind high stone walls. To get inside, you have to cross a large moat, which is…